Snow play to scenic strolls: A winter guide to SH73

By Mari Henderson

When snow blankets the Southern Alps, most people's initial thoughts of winter along the Great Alpine Highway 73 are of the six ski resorts scattered along the highway. And while the snow-covered slopes are undeniably appealing, what if skiing or snowboarding isn’t your thing? Well, this one is for you. Unknown to some and maybe not so highly publicised, there's an abundance of adventure and fun to be had along the highway. From snow play to scenic hikes and cozy cafes, there’s winter magic waiting for everyone.

Snow play at Porters

Snow without slopes

Starting strong with something that fuels everyone's inner child and excitement is the snow! For families and those simply looking to play, Porters Lodge is the perfect stop. Just a short detour off the main road, this friendly alpine lodge features a designated snowplay and tobogganing area right next to the restaurant and accommodation. It’s easily accessible and ideal for a spontaneous snowy outing. 

Nestled in a clearing on the edge of the trees is Forest Lodge’s ice skating rink. Located on the access road to Mt Cheeseman Ski Area, this natural rink comes alive when temperatures drop and the surface freezes, and then the fun begins. No skates? No problem. With a donation-based skate shed stocked for public use, all you need is balance, maybe a good sense of humour, and you’re good to go.

Ice skating at Forest Lodge

Now, suppose you are someone whose inner child needs a slightly more challenging task. In that case, both Porter's Alpine Resort and Mt Cheeseman Ski Area have great, gentle beginner areas where you can give skiing or snowboarding a shot, and with a warm café nearby to greet you after your snowy adventures, or to reward your bravery if the snow gets the better of you.

Beginner's slope at Mt Cheeseman

Winter walks and scenic trails

When it's cold and wintery outside, it's always nice to have some extra incentive for your walks or small hiking adventures, something exciting to visit – a real drawcard. So here are some great options.

At the edge of Arthur's Pass village is Devils Punchbowl. A one-hour return trip leads you on a gradual incline through the lush beech forest and up to the base of the spectacular 131m waterfall. You’ll enjoy the views of the winding rivers and the mountains above. This walk is perfectly suited to any age or level of fitness.

If you’re after a half-day, energetic hike, then the Bealey Spur track is a great choice. This 11km return hike leads you up the spur from the Bealey Village. Within an hour, you’ll find yourself surrounded by frozen tarns and views diving deep to the head of the Waimakariri. Truly a magical place to be on a sunny, crisp winter's day.

Standing proud amid the Castle Hill basin are the unique limestone rock formations of Kura Tawhiti. A trip to these rocks is less of a walk and more of an adventure to another world. This short loop is ideal for stretching your legs, taking photos, or letting kids’ imaginations run wild among the ancient rocks.

Where to stay or warm up

If you are visiting the area for a couple of days or even just a day trip, you may need somewhere to warm up or fill your hunger and quench your thirst. Along the highway, there are many places to stay, so here are a few to visit.

The road to Porters Lodge

Porters Lodge is a great option. Aside from frolicking around in the snow, the lodge boasts a warm and cozy atmosphere. With bunk bed style rooms, you can enjoy a few nights' stay immersed in the blissful peace of the mountains. Its restaurant is a wonderful spot for enjoying anything from a comforting hot chocolate to lunch or dinner, an accessible and awesome place to visit in the evening if you're staying close by.

A delicious meal from Porters Lodge

Castle Hill Village is a 10-minute drive from Porters Lodge and includes many holiday houses that vary in size. These houses are a fantastic option for families or groups of friends. If you're after more backpacker-style accommodation, Forest Lodge, tucked in the native forest under the Craigieburn Range, provides both dormitory and private rooms, with a lovely, friendly environment. Both Castle Hill Village and Forest Lodge are within 15 minutes of Porters Lodge, making it a great food alternative if you’re keen for a meal out or just after a nice beverage to round off your adventurous day out.

Porters Lodge - a great place for a meal with friends and family

Further west, embracing the alpine high country, you have the Bealey Hotel and Arthurs Pass Village. With its 4-star comfort, the Bealey Hotel overlooks the broadly sweeping Waimakariri River and spectacular Southern Alps, providing anything from luxury apartments to family-sized cabins or a backpacker-style lodge. Eleven minutes west in the heart of the mountains lies Arthur’s Pass Village, similar to Castle Hill Village, there are a variety of holiday homes available as well as motels and backpackers.

Winter is a great time to explore the beautiful Great Alpine Highway 73. Take your time, take in the scenery and enjoy what it has to offer.

Enjoy a night at the Bealey Hotel