The Secrets of the Selwyn Six

By Sam Masters

The six ski resorts in Selwyn are the very soul of Kiwi freeride. These are globally unique snowsports destinations that demand an adventurous heart- and deliver an unforgettable experience. 

It does, however, take a couple of trips to get the hang of these resorts. There are a number of traps for young players including “interesting” access roads, overheating on the hike to the lifts or lax nutcracker technique. Experience is always more costly and more useful than advice. Until now. These are my top tips for skiing at Mt Olympus, Craigieburn, Broken River, Temple Basin, Porters and Cheeseman.

How to get the best snow
The New Zealand winter – heavily influenced by our maritime climate - is varied, pugnacious, and down-right ugly. Winter storms rarely turn up when expected and shut the country down when they are least wanted. When it comes to powder snow there are no guarantees. Things are so random that Kiwi meteorologists use ‘fickle’ as a verb: “Canterbury skiers will be badly fickled by snow conditions tomorrow.”

For powder snow you need luck or total freedom. Sadly, your regular life will need to take a back seat to score the best snow unless you have inserted a ‘powder clause’ into your employment contract and/or pre-nuptial agreement. No plan is best. Make it a winter habit to wake up early (6am) when the resorts file their web reports and drop everything when conditions are right. 

Outrun any incoming cold front by staying in the on-mountain club field accommodation the night before the storm hits. Some club fields will open the tows before they open the road. This is the legendary ‘lock in’ that will see you track out the resort before most people get up to the field around lunch time.

When it comes to finding powder snow, extensive research, experience and luck play their part. The foolhardy and unprepared, however, can still have their day. That’s the nature of really deep snow – it doesn’t always reward the deserving and righteous. 

Best ski vehicle 
Regular maintenance, winter tyres, chains and a good dose of antifreeze are essential – but only if you are foolish enough to take your own car. The ideal winter vehicle has plenty of clearance, 4WD, an inexpensive paint job, a demister that works, enough power to smash through a snow bank and belongs to someone you don’t particularly like. Oddly enough the more expensive your car the more likely that the keas will eat the rubber bits on it. Hiring a vehicle is a good option. Irrespective of make or model a rental car is always an excellent off-road vehicle. 

Winter driving for legends
Momentum is your friend – at least on the way up. On the way down it is best to keep things well under control. On bullet-proof ice it doesn’t matter how fancy your Fendalton tractor is – above a certain speed threshold you are going to slide. 

The laws of snow chains
It’s easier to learn how to fit chains in your driveway than in a snowstorm at night. 
Whenever you need to fit chains the road will be muddy. You will also be wearing brand new threads.

The bigger the rush to get up the hill the more quickly your fingers will freeze (fingerless gloves anyone?).

It is cheaper to buy chains that fit properly than to respray your car after the wheel arches have been flailed by loose chains.

Fitting chains on bald tyres is like saddling a poodle; both weird and ultimately pointless.

Temple Basin
Nor-west storm? It’s probably dumping. Take poles for the walk up to the lodges. Remember to keep our car keys in your pocket on the way down.

  

Broken River
A record-popping snow pocket that gets more of the white stuff than any other resort in Australasia except Ruapehu. The Tindall Tramway can bottleneck on a powder day. Walk up or get there early. 

Craigieburn
Tricky rope tows and total lack of grooming tends to work the unfit and undercooked. Slackcountry options for the more adventurous include the sustained pitch to avalanche corner; one of the best powder runs in New Zealand.

Porters
When Canterbury is frozen solid, Big Mama still ripens up nicely with a bit of sun; time it right for one of the best corn-snow runs on the South Island. Closest ski resort to Christchurch (89km) for those watching the clock.

Mt Olympus
Discover an alternate alpine reality for mountain lovers. Just remember to book lunch by phone on your day of arrival (if you haven’t booked by 11am you miss out).

Mt Cheeseman
Avoid the powder day frenzy elsewhere in Canterbury with lazy slackcountry laps in Tarn Basin.